Playa Mauri August 2, 2010,
Leaving the beach house with My Uncle Jose had an amazing party last night with a couple girls. We arrive at semi pro suffer Omar Gonzalez house at 3:00am tired as heck, we crash there for 2 hours then we meet up with some other surfers. We stop at Los Pueblos in Panama and have breakfast, and then we take off for a 4 our trip to Playa Mauri. When we arrived to Playa Mauri we had to park the cars 4 miles away from the beach site, because the terrain was really bad for the cars to get throw, so on when we were getting ready to head out to the beach, Omar Gonzalez told me “ur not going to be needing sandals!” I ask Omar why? He told me that theirs lot of rocks and puddles of mud that suck Ur sandals of your feet and you’ll never find them back. After he told me that I was afraid to even walk! Nevertheless I said to myself “no pain no game!” as so I had to march with the other surfers.
As we were walking we encountered “BULLS” it was one of the scariest things that have happen to me. My uncle just told us to stay calm and not to run we did as he said, but as we kept on walking we meet up the female bull, she must had to way at least 1000 pounds . She did her kicking back thing and charged, oh my gosh! I took off running bare footed in the middle of a jungle. I soon looked back I said to myself I ‘am gone from the bull, nevertheless I ask myself where’s my uncle and he’s friends, nowhere to be found! As I stay where I ‘am at I start to scream for help and my uncle appears in the bushes. We give each other a hand shake and move forward, as where approaching Playa Mauri we remember that there has been a big flood in Playa Marui for 4 days. Leading us to cross it to get to Playa Mauri it was like a lagoon the dirty water was as high to my neck I was scared that there where alligators or some kind of snake in the water.
As soon as we got out of the lagoon, Playa Mauri was right there in front of my eyes I wanted to just jump in and starts surfing, but nevertheless I couldn’t because we had to stretch, study the waves, and get hydrated. It took us 45 minutes to finish all of that silly junk; the current that day was really strong hardest beach I’ve ever surfed in my life. All the semi pros where already pass the current and in the deep end of the ocean while I was still in the middle of the ocean trying to duck under the waves, but as soon as I got to the deep end; the waves started kicking in, one after another. I was like a bird flying in the sky’s best experience ever, but that bird has to take a break just like me. As I was paddling out a big current was pulling we to another area of the beach where I shouldn’t have been. So my uncle and Oscar help push me out, but out of nowhere Oscar says bail out meaning he’s leaving, an enormous wave picks my uncle and I and flips us over. I get tangled with my uncle’s leash causing me not get a breath of air; but my uncle makes a risky move taking of he’s leash letting he’s bored free. When I take my first breath of air I ‘am already at shore. I thank God that I ‘am alive on shore and telling my story, but at the same time a get really piss when I see my broken surf bored and my Uncles new bored that cost hem 500 dollars and the result to all of these is we can’t surf the whole entire day. As I always say “No pain no game”.
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